Soak Up Albaicin’s Atmosphere with the Best Self-Guided Walking Tour

Welcome to my favorite neighborhood in Granada, Albaicin! The first time I spent a weekend in Granada, we stayed at this amazing Moorish historical home that was steps from the city’s oldest district, Albaicin. Established by the Arabs in the 11th century, to date it has retained much of it’s original charm that manifests in the maze of narrow medieval lanes, intimate courtyards, and traditional whitewashed houses built practically on top of one another.

Some say that the name “Albaicin” means “quarter of falcons,” but most historians are more inclined towards the translation “quarter of the Baeza”, referring to the Moors who settled here after the Christians drove them out in the 13th century. And this is just the tip of the iceberg for exploring around Albaicin. Now, join me on a self-guided walking tour of Albaicin.

Hey, before I share some great free info, could you help me out by using my affiliate links to book your trip? It doesn’t cost you anything, and it supports my blog. Let’s keep the good vibes flowing! Thanks a bunch!

Mirador de San Nicolas (San Nicolas Lookout)

San Nicolas offers the best view of the Alhambra at sunset, but Granada has many spectacular lookouts. San Cristobal is reputed to be a fantastic viewpoint of the City.

On clear days at sunset, a crowd gathers in the square of San Nicolas to watch the Alhambra turn red in the setting sun. Alhambra, in Arabic, means “red castle.” Tourists, locals, and travelers come together at the overlook. There are vendors hawking snacks, flamenco dancers, souvenir sellers, and other entertainment.

The lookout is named for San Nicolas Church and Square. The church was built on the top of a mosque in 1525. There seems to have been a trend, when the Catholic Monarchs took over in 1491, to drop a church on a mosque. Location, location, the man said. The church has been destroyed several times by fires, but the original bell tower survives.

For only a few euros, it is possible to climb the tower of San Nicolas and get a better view

Mezquita del Albaicín (Albaicín Mosque)

The Mezquita del Albaycín (Albaycín Mosque), also known as The Great Mosque of Granada, was opened in 2003 and is the first mosque built in the city since the Christian Reconquista in 1492.

The Mosque features a traditional Arabic style with architectural accents of the Nasrid Empire. Located in Plaza San Nicolás, in the historic Albaycín neighborhood, The Great Mosque comprises three sections: the garden, the prayer room (which is the mosque itself), and the Center for Islamic Studies.

The prayer section is decorated with sober elements borrowed from Islamic artistic traditions. The mihrab, which marks the direction of prayer towards Mecca, is a replica of the one in the Mosque of Córdoba. The cedar wood panels of the Atlas (which are truly stunning), carved by hand, contain an ayah from the Qur’an, where some of the divine attributes are named.

The marble panels, which are different colors, are identical to those of the Al Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem. The large windows of the qibla are copies of those of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. The fountain and the mosaics in the courtyard, which give access to the prayer room, were made by artisans from Fez, Morocco, who recreated the designs and used the same techniques as in Muslim Granada 1000 years ago.

The minaret is a tower of genuine Albaicine proportions and silhouette. The mosaic inscription with Kufic calligraphy, which can be read under its eaves, is the declaration of faith of the Muslims: “There is no god but Allah. Muhammad is the messenger of Allah.” On the ground floor, the main entrance hall has a reception desk and a store selling books, crafts, and souvenirs.

Palacio de Dar-al-Horra (Dar-al-Horra Palace)

The Palacio de Dar-al-Horra was built by the Emirs of Granada in the 15th century, shortly before their rule was ended by Christian conquistadors. The palace was built upon the remains of a destroyed palace and is the only Muslim palace in the Albayzin to have been at least partially preserved. The name ‘Dar-al-Horra’ translates from Arabic as ‘the House of the Honest Lady’. This is believed to refer to the mother of King Boabdil, the last Arab monarch of Spain, who lived in the palace until 1492 when Granada was claimed by the Catholic monarchs.

Following the Conquest of Granada, the palace was converted by Queen Isabella into the Santa Isabel la Real convent. While the convent still exists within the palace compound, the parts of the original palace that remain are owned by the government and are listed as a national monument. The palace is filled with examples of Nasrid art, which combines Arabic and European artistic styles. The central courtyard is flanked by two porticoes, with a small pool and fountain in the southern portico. The northern portico is notable for its horseshoe-shaped arches and ornate Medujar style ceiling, which are made from wood carved in a geometric pattern.

Monastery of Santa Isabel la Real

The Monastery of Santa Isabel la Real stands next to San Miguel Bajo church on the Camino Nuevo de San Nicolás. It was built on the site of Dar al-Horra, a former Moorish palace. It was founded by Queen Isabella of Castile following the conquest of Granada in 1492. The monastery was designed in the Gothic style, known locally as ‘Isabella’s style’ due to its popularity with the Queen. It was completed in the 16th century and bears her coat of arms on the entrance door.

The church’s interior is notable for several unusual items. These include a Mudejar ceiling above the nave, comprised of fretted woodwork in a style associated with Moorish craftsmen. The church also houses the tomb of sculptor Bernardo Francisco de Mora. The font is formed from the remnants of a fountain recovered from the remains of the palace.

The statue of the Virgin Mary, along with several wooden crosses seen on the monastery’s walls, is carried by the resident nuns through Granada’s streets for the Easter parade. The nuns that live at the monastery can be heard singing next to the nave each evening at 7 pm. They also sell pastries, which can be bought through a revolving window within the church.

Low San Miguel Square and Church

Low San Miguel is low because it is lower than the other San Miguel, High San Miguel (makes sense right?). Low San Miguel church has a humble simple appearance, but the church and the plaza has a story to tell.

Alongside the church is a fountain with red brick, indicating that it may have been a mosque during the time of the Muslim Almohads. Two marble columns from the Roman imperial age suggest an even earlier time. A statue of Christ on the cross is bound with iron clamps, a veteran of the Spanish Civil War. Needless to say, the entire church and the square are seeped in history.

The church was built in the Mudejar style but also has several Renaissance accents. The entrance is framed by two Corinthian columns and pilasters bearing shields. Above the doors, there is an image of San Miguel, made in 1558 by Toribio de Liébana. On the sides of San Miguel’s niche are two oculi with angels. On the western portal is St. Peter, similarly arranged.

The church has one nave and side chapels, a Main Chapel, and a choir. In the 16th century, Tomas de Morales installed an altarpiece in two sections. In 1753, Blas Moreno replaced Morales’ altarpieces with an altar with sculptures by Turcato Ruiz del Peral.

Don’t forget to visit the tower before you leave. The tower is square, with five floors accessible by stairs. On each floor, there are chairs for those not used to serious climbing or if you are carrying kiddos on your back. From the top floor of the tower, there are spectacular views of Albaicin, the convent of Santa Isabel, and the city of Granada.

San Jose Church

Yes, another church. I know there are a lot of churches on this walk, but they are all beautiful and historically significant. The San Jose Church is found in the district of Albayzin, a collection of churches in the area formed from the ruins of mosques and Almohad palaces. The church tower is believed to have once been the minaret for the ‘mosque of the Hermits,’ which stood on this spot until 1517 when the church replaced it. You can see a Moorish-era water deposit at the tower’s foot. In buildings like San Jose church and the nearby San Miguel and Santa Isabella places of worship, the crossover from Muslim to Christian domination of Granada is most visible. 

The church was designed by Rodrigo Hernández in an ojival manner. Once you pass through the Elvira stone portal, you can enjoy the fine, gilded decoration typical of churches built following the return of Christianity to Andalucía. The central nave is supported by four arches bearing the arms of the Catholic Kings.

Calle Calderería Nueva (New Caldereria Street)

Looking for a cup of tea? Or any other souvenir? Most tea rooms and tea shops in Granada can be found on New Caldereria Street, in the Albaicin quarter. Also called La Calle de las Teterias, the street is packed with shops offering international teas, juices, cakes, crepes, rugs, arrases, and hookahs. Drink, smoke, and absorb the ambiance of Albaicin.

Continuing down the narrow, cobbled street, encounter more teas – Arabic teas, oriental teas, and, oops, aphrodisiacs. There are smoothies, juices, and liqueurs. Feeling peckish? There is Arab cuisine, vegetarian fare, and Indian and Middle Eastern dishes. Last but not least, find a wide selection of Andalusian pastries and desserts.

The lasting impression of New Caldereria Street is one of aroma and color, fabrics draped over balconies, and liveliness. That’s more than one impression. If we had to pick just one, it would be the exotic perfume of the many different teas, the enticing smell of the cuisines, the Andalusian sweets… Wait, that’s more than one.

Tablao Flamenco La Alborea

The mission of the Tablao Flamenco La Alborea is to deliver the unique dance experience called Flamenco to Granada. Located in the Plaza Nueva, it is easily accessible by foot from any place in the old city. One-hour flamenco shows are presented by four artists. Seating is available by the stage or on the balcony. The acoustics are great.

A one-hour show usually features a singer, a guitarist, and a bailor or bailaora. The artists are often from Sacromonte, one of Albaicin’s six districts.

In the dance, there are five elements: cante (singing), Baile (dance), guitarra (guitar), palmas (hand clapping), jaleo (a call, like “ole!”). There is also a festero or festera, the one who is “throwing the party.” The flamenco is performed on a tablao, a small stage usually of wood. The wood enhances the sounds of heels stamping in the dance.

The flamenco is gypsy in origin. During the Franco era in Spain, the flamenco was changed to become more sensual. Many aficionados feel this has had a corrupting effect on the dance itself, making it less genuine.

Plaza Nueva (The New Square)

The name is fairly deceiving for this next stop. The Plaza Nueva (New Square) is one of the oldest squares in Granada. Historically, the plaza was the scene of bullfights, tournaments, and an occasional execution—a spectator event. Before, it was a square. However, it was a bridge. Called the Bridge of Loggers, it spanned the River Darro.

The square is centrally located and is an ideal starting point for explorations on foot. Walk from the Puerto Granadas to the Alhambra forest to the Alhambra, a 15—or 20-minute journey. Exit through the cobbled street on the left of the Church of Santa Ana to the River Darro. Perhaps go up Elvira Street to the Mirador San Nicolas and the Albaicin.

The main attraction of the square is the High Court of Andalusia. The court building, constructed in 1530, was formerly the Chancilleria Real (Royal Chancellery). A prison is in the rear of the building, handy to the court. The square is also home to the Arborea Flamenco. Cafes, flamenco, ole!

Church of San Gil y Santa Ana

The Iglesia de San Gil y Santa Ana stands opposite the Santa Ana Plaza in Granada’s historic city center. A small, elegant 16th-century church, it is one of the city’s most sought-after wedding venues for the wealthy middle class of Andalucía. The church was designed by renowned local architect Diego de Siloe and was built in the Renaissance style. The building’s front façade, facing onto the adjacent plaza, features three niches, each containing the statue of a saint and engravings of the Virgin Mary and Jesus.

The church was constructed according to the architect’s specifications. De Siloe wanted to create a heavily decorated, spectacular building that combined elements of Arabic architecture with Christian imagery. This is the unique style behind many of the grand churches of Granada. One example of the Arabian influence on the design is the Mudejar ceiling, which is formed from carved wood and represents decoration produced by the Moorish craftsmen who once lived in the city. 

The Church of San Gil y Santa Ana is open to the public for much of the year and still holds regular services.

El Bañuelo (Traditional Arab Bath)

El Banuelo is a well-preserved hammam, an Islamic bathhouse. It is located on the Darro’s banks in the Albaicin district. It was used as a bathhouse until the 16th century. It fell into disuse until the 20th century, when it underwent several restorations. 

Hammams were common throughout the Muslim world. They were used for ablutions, hygiene, and socializing. They functioned very much like the old Roman baths. Many Islamic bathhouses have been uncovered in Granada. Most of the bathhouses were found to be quite simple. The exception to the rule is the lush hammams of the 14th-century Alhambra.

The Bañuelo dates from the 12th century, when Nasrid rule in Granada was in full swing. The baths would have been in the old royal citadel in Abaicin before the Alhambra became the center of political power.

The baths were organized by sequential rooms. The first, open to the street, was a reception room with a small pool. A doorway in the room led to rooms with latrines and, from there, to a changing room. Then came a cold room, a warm room, and a hot room. There was no immersion. The patrons were simply doused with warm water.

Archaeological Museum of Granada (Castril Palace)

The Archaeological Museum is housed in the House of Castril, a villa built by heirs of the Catholic Kings in 1539. Its elegant façade was designed by Sebastian de Alcantara. In 1917, Leopoldo Eguilaz y Yanguas acquired the House of Castril. A keen Orientalist, Yanguas turned the palace into a museum of archaeology for the city to better preserve Granada’s long history and the Eastern influences that shaped it.

The house has two floors, with a colonnaded courtyard at the center, all occupied by the museum. There are seven galleries in total, covering several different archaeological eras. Visitors first pass through a gallery on the Palaeolithic period, with many exhibits on the evolution of prehistoric man. The second and third galleries demonstrate man’s progress up to the Bronze Age.

The museum’s second section, comprised of four galleries, presents artifacts from different ages of the modern colonial era, including many exhibits from Roman and Arabic culture. Items on display include weapons, vases, urns and pottery. The later sections demonstrate the many different cultures that have lived in Granada throughout the city’s long history. Though exhibits worldwide are included, the museum generally focuses on local archaeological finds. Admission is free to EU citizens and costs 1.50 Euros for others. It is worth noting that the museum stays open through the afternoon when many churches and museums in the city close for the traditional siesta period.

Carrera del Darro (Darro Street)

The whole left bank of the River Darro is called the Carrera del Darro. Carrera del Darro is unique in a city full of unique things. The street runs in between the river and the forest of Alhambra. The churches are lighted at night, and the Alhambra at the top of its hill glows with light.

Starting in the sixteenth century, the nobility of Granada made their homes in this picturesque place. Renaissance buildings, churches, and ruins beside bars and cafes line the street and river banks. The Banuelo is here. Public baths came in the 11th century. Mudejar churches like Santa Ana and San Pedro date from 1567.

Then there is the tragic story of the House of Castril balcony. Today, the Castril House is an archeology museum. It is a Renaissance dwelling built in 1539. It belonged to a rich nobleman named Zafra. Zafra was obsessed with keeping his daughter Elvira locked away from the local swains.

He ordered the death of a servant who was caught with a message for Elvira from a likely suitor. He believed the message of love was from the servant and ordered that he be hung from his daughter’s balcony. When the servant protested his innocence, Zafra suggested he hang from the balcony and wait. Elvira took poison and killed herself.

A mysterious inscription, “Esperando La Del Cielo” (“Waiting for Heaven”), was found above Elvira’s balcony. The case was never solved, and it was a melodramatic tragedy.

Paseo de los Tristes (The Promenade of the Sad)

Officially, the real name of Paseo de las Tristes is Paseo del Padre Manjon. At one time, the paseo was a route for funeral processions. “Tristes” in Spanish can mean “sorrows.” The paseo is easily accessible by the city’s hop-on, hop-off train or bus. The path is often crowded when the weather is mild and clear, especially at sunset.

The promenade is a pleasant walk bordered by the River Darro and some finer restaurants. It offers stunning views of the Alhambra against the skyline. There is also a flamenco venue (of course!) and tourist shops galore. The ancient cobblestone streets recall the medieval era.

The paseo leads to the San Jose cemetery, across the river and above the Alhambra. For mourners, it was a long trip on foot. They must have stopped here, in this pleasant place, to say their farewells. Today, there is a spacious terrace with umbrellas from which to contemplate sunset views, have a drink, and let go of the “sorrows.”

Palacio de los Cordova

The Palacio de los Cordova was first built at Placecta de las Descalzas. Constructed between 1530 and 1592, it was owned by Luis Fernandez de Cordova, the Great Lieutenant of Granada. In the intervening years, the palace was sold by the Cordova family, until by the early 20th century, the building was set for demolition. Throughout its history at the site, many companies used it as a factory and warehouse. It was demolished in 1919 and replaced by a theatre. The palace’s many treasures were moved to the Villa Maria estate outside the city limits.

In the 1960s, Granada’s mayor, Manuel Sola, persuaded distant relatives of Fernandez de Cordova to fund the complete palace rebuilding. A plot was selected at Cuesta del Chapiz, near the Darro River. The building was completed in 1965 under the supervision of Malaga-based architect Alvarez de Toledo, and all of the palace’s preserved treasures were returned to the new building. Appropriately enough, the palace now houses the City Historical Archive, a council-funded research facility charting Granada’s colorful, turbulent history. First opened to the public in 1984, the building is open throughout the year and is free to visit.

Granada is a beautiful, mystical, and magical city that I believe everyone should visit while they are traveling around Andalucia. Especially visiting the Albaicin neighborhood where so much of that mystical magic still lives.

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