Phylicia StitzelCologne is one of Germany’s oldest and one of my personal favorite cities in Germany. It was founded as a Roman settlement on the Rhine in the first century, then known as the Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium. After the Roman Empire collapsed, Cologne came under Frankish rule. The city became known simply as Colonia. English speakers call the city by its French translation, Cologne.
So, I welcome you to join me on this self-guided walking tour to explore Cologne’s most notable sights!
Hey, before I share some great free info, could you help me out by using my affiliate links to book your trip? It doesn’t cost you anything, and it supports my blog. Let’s keep the good vibes flowing! Thanks a bunch!
The city’s location on major trade routes allowed it to flourish in the Middle Ages. In 1475, it became a Holy Roman Empire-free imperial city and was one of Europe’s largest medieval and Renaissance cities. The French occupied Cologne again from 1794 until 1815 when it became part of Prussia. The British occupied it from 1918 to 1926. If you are interested in a little history lesson before we start on our self-guided walking tour.
Cologne is a cultural hotspot with hundreds of galleries and over 30 museums. Visitors can explore historical shopping squares such as Hay Market and Alter Market and modern shopping areas like High Street and Schildergasse Street. During the Reformation period in the 16th century, the citizens of Cologne chose to remain Catholic.
As a result, the religious buildings in the city were spared the worst of the devastation suffered in the surrounding towns. Today, Cologne is known for its twelve restored Romanesque Catholic churches. The Great St. Martin Church was built between 1150 and 1250 and was rebuilt after WWII. Don’t miss Cologne’s most iconic landmark, the Cologne Cathedral (which looks like it could have been built by aliens or gods – it is STUNNING). This Gothic cathedral’s impressive tower is 515 feet tall.
Heumarkt
Cologne’s Heumarkt (Hay Market) is one of Central Europe’s oldest markets, dating back to the Roman era. In the Middle Ages, the Heumarkt developed into a trading center. Back then, Heumarkt and Old Market were originally known together as Old Market. However, as time progressed, the market areas separated.
Heumarkt’s prime location made it an ideal place for trade. Traders sold vegetables, fish, cheese, legumes, and spices in addition to grain and hay. A grain scale was added in 1492.
In addition to its commercial success, the square where the Heumarkt operated has grown in aesthetic appeal. During the Renaissance period, Heumarkt was considered one of the most beautiful city squares in Central Europe, often being compared to St. Marks in Venice. Today, the brick-paved square is lined with well-groomed trees and fancy restaurants and is a lively place popular with tourists and locals alike.
The Cologne Stock Exchange was established in Heumarkt Square in 1580. The statue of Prussia’s Friedrich Wilhelm III dominates the square. The equestrian statue was dedicated in 1878. The main market hall was built in 1904.
Heumarkt hasn’t been in operation as a marketplace for a long time. However, the square still bears its name today and is as popular as ever. It features several pubs and breweries as well as a good number of restaurants and cafes that offers outside seating and excellent people-watching in the summer.
If you are a Christmas nerd like me, you’ll want to attend the Cologne Christmas Markets. The Heumarkt square is home to a festive Christmas market and an ice-skating rink in winter, this is where you can visit the Gnome-themed Christmas Market, which is one of eight Christmas markets around the city.
Alter Markt
The Alter Markt, or “Old Market,” was once connected to the Heumarkt. Today, the square bearing its name has several Renaissance buildings, an attractive fountain, and a also has its own Christmas Market!
The Alter Markt Square has hosted markets and a residential area since at least 922. The oldest original structure dates to 1580. Many other historic houses and buildings were destroyed during World War II bombing attacks.
The 1371 Cologne Weaver Uprising took place in Alter Markt and Haumarkt. The weavers guild and the city council continuously disagreed, and the conflict turned bloody. The city council had more manpower, however, and the weavers were arrested or forced to leave the city.
Today, visitors will find traditional German architecture and old monuments dedicated to the city’s founders on and around the square. The imposing old town hall is on the square’s west side.
Here is a fun tip: If you look near the roof of house number 24, you will see a fun and strange sculpture, a Kallendresser. The sculpture depicts someone relieving himself in the gutter. The sculpture is thought to be a political statement directed towards the city authority.
The Alter Markt Square is a pedestrian-only area surrounded by restaurants, bars, and ice-cream shops. The place is full of life well into the night.
Groß St. Martin (Great St. Martin Church)
The Great St. Martin Church has a long and storied history. The current church is a Romanesque Catholic church built between 1150 and 1250. The church’s most distinctive feature is its iconic tower, which has shaped Old Town’s skyline for centuries.
This site was an island in the Rhine River during Roman times. The Romans built a chapel on it, and another church was built in the 10th century.
The church was destroyed by fire in 1150, and a new church was commissioned. A tri-apsidal structure was built in 1172 and survived a fire in 1185 (I know—you’d think they would learn about fire and brimstone in the Bible with all these fires). Another fire damaged the roofs of the four towers in 1378, and a storm in 1434 knocked the roofs from the towers.
Baroque decorations were added to the church’s interior during the 18th century. However, some church officials thought the decorations were too ornate and changed some elements.
In 1794, French forces occupied Cologne and remained for 20 years. Great St. Martin’s monastery was disbanded in 1802, and the monks had to find other places to live. The abbey was used as French barracks before being demolished.
Extensive restoration work began in 1847. During World War II, the church was damaged and several parts of the church burned to the ground (see there we go again with the burning things). The church was restored between 1948 and 1985.
Why You Should Visit: Gorgeous church exterior (it should be after all of the times it’s been worked on after all these fires); conveniently located near the Rhine; set in a quiet and peaceful area of the city and close to the old town restaurants.
Pro Tip: The entrance is slightly hidden at the rear. You may also go downstairs into the basement to see some old Roman foundations on which the church was built…learn from my mistakes – you’re welcome.
Historic Town Hall
The Historic Town Hall was built on the Roman Praetorium site, which was the Roman Governor of Germania Inferior seat until 475. An earthquake in the eighth century destroyed the Praetorium.
Historic Town Hall is Germany’s oldest city hall. Citizens formed a commune in the 11th century, and Cologne’s coat of arms dates back to 1114. The roofed hall is City Hall’s oldest building, dating back to 1330, and features stone figures representing the Emperor, the Privileges, and the Nine Worthies.
The Gothic-style tower was constructed between 1407 and 1414. The five-story tower is 61 meters (200 feet) tall. The tower was Cologne’s first secular high-rise and features 130 stone statues. Though the tower was damaged in World War II by falling bombs, it has been restored. The tower’s carillon is played four times a day.
The Renaissance-style loggia, known as the Rathauslaube, was completed in 1573. The two-story arcade serves as an entrance to the main hall. The Spanischer Bau building, finished in 1615, features Dutch Renaissance architecture. The name refers to Spanish delegates residing during the Thirty Years War of 1618-1648. The Piazzetta was built after World War II.
Why You Should Visit: This is the oldest town hall in Germany. It is a complex of different architectural styles that is remarkable to see. The stone-paved area is perfect for a walk.
Pro Tip: You can enjoy excellent views of the bridge and cathedral from the other side of the river.
Hohe Strasse (High Street)
High Street is one of Cologne’s oldest streets. Today, it is a famous pedestrian-only shopping street. This street was originally a Roman Cardo Maximus street was lined with shops and vendors. The forum with temples and the Praetorium was located along the street. In addition, two Roman legions had hospitals, canteens, and barracks along the street.
High Street has been central to Cologne’s culture over the centuries. The street has held different names, such as Stone Street, during the Middle Ages. During the French Occupation of 1795-1814, a French survey called the street “High Street” about the High Porte on its southern end.
High Street became a busy shopping street during the 19th century. Today, visitors will find a wide range of shops. Don’t miss visiting the famous chocolatier Stollwerck. Kids of all ages will love the massive Lego store. The street also features dozens of cafes and restaurants.
Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral)
Cologne Cathedral is a World Heritage Site and Germany’s most visited landmark. Twenty thousand people visit each day. At 157 meters (515) tall, it is the world’s tallest twin-spired church, Europe’s second-tallest church, and the world’s third-tallest church. In addition, it is Northern Europe’s largest Gothic church.
Construction began in 1248 and stalled between 1560 and 1840. Finally, the tower was completed in 1880. The site has hosted Christian buildings since the fourth century. A seventh-century baptistery was located at the Cathedral’s east end. The “Old Cathedral” stood here from 818 to 1248.
Cologne Cathedral was initially built to house the relics from the Three Kings. The eastern arm of the cathedral was built first, and construction on the west front continued in the 14th century.
In the 19th century, the original facade plans were discovered, and officials decided to complete the cathedral. In 1860, the cathedral was completed 632 years after construction began. World War II bombs damaged the church, and repairs were carried out.
The black marble High Altar was installed in 1322. The Shrine of the Three Kings is the cathedral’s biggest draw. The shrine holds the remains of the Three Wise Men. Work on the gilded shrine began in 1190.
The Gero Crucifix, created in the 10th century, is one of the oldest examples of a large free-standing crucifix. The wooden Milan Madonna dates to around 1290. An interior wall features a pair of stone tablets from the 13th century, which legalized Cologne’s Jewish residents. The choir has original carved stalls that date to the 14th century. The cathedral features 11 bells. The oldest bell was cast in 1418. When St. Peter’s Bell was cast in 1922, it was the world’s largest free-swinging bell.
Why You Should Visit: It is simply jaw-dropping in size. You may never see another church so detailed and so large.
Pro Tip: Look at the beautiful mosaics on the floor in the Cathedral’s rear part. You may also climb up to the top for a great view of Cologne or go to underground parking to see the original foundations exposed there.
Museum Ludwig
Museum Ludwig is a modern art museum. The museum focuses on Pop Art, Abstract Art, and Surrealism. Museum Ludwig houses one of Europe’s largest Picasso collections, in addition to works by Roy Lichenstein and Andy Warhol.
The museum’s most popular artworks are Andy Warhol’s Brillo Boxes, Roy Lichenstein’s M-Maybe, and George Segal’s Restaurant Window.
The museum is named after chocolatier Peter Ludwig, who endowed the City of Cologne with 350 modern artworks, which were then valued at $45 million. The museum also houses a collection donated by Josef Haubrich. The museum continues to collect and exhibit contemporary art.
The museum has around 900 pieces of Picasso artwork, making it the world’s third-largest Picasso collection. Peter Ludwig also permanently loaned his collection of Russian avant-garde works. The collection includes 600 works from the early Russian avant-garde period and is the most extensive collection outside Russia.
Why You Should Visit: Perhaps Europe’s most exciting modern art museum. Floor after floor, one room leads to another, and each work of art receives the needed space to come to life and impress you.
Pro Tip: Don’t miss the bookstore at the entrance; it is not the usual souvenir shop, but a seriously good selection of art books in several European languages.
4711 House of Fragrances
The 4711 House of Fragrances is home to a museum and the original cologne store. 4711 refers to the building where fragrances were manufactured in 1792.
Johann Maria Farina first created a fragrance in the early 18th century. He named it “Water from Cologne” (in German, “Eau de Cologne”). During the 18th century, the fragrance became increasingly popular.
Wilhelm Mulhens was another fragrance producer who started manufacturing “miracle water” as a medicine. During the French Occupation at the end of the 18th century, a soldier listed the building where Mulhens created his fragrance as “4711” in a census.
In 1810, a Napoleonic law required all medicine producers to list their ingredients. Mulhens decided to repackage his product as a fragrance rather than disclose the secret ingredients.
Mulhens wanted to capitalize on the famous Farina name and bought the rights to the Farina name. However, this purchase was suspect and the Farina family sued Mulhens. Mulhens finally adopted the 4711 name in 1881.
The original 4711 building no longer exists. The new 4711 building houses the flagship 4711 store and a museum. Visitors can enjoy the Fragrance Fountain, which circulates the 4711 Original “Water from Cologne”. In addition, visitors can tour exhibitions that showcase old Rosoli bottles and historic perfume creations.
Pro Tip: You can create your own perfume or look for different types of souvenirs for family and friends.
For more fun and adventurous blog posts about Germany – click the links below!
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