Phylicia StitzelIf you’re dreaming of wandering ancient stone streets, ducking into hidden alleys, and stumbling into 1,700 years of history at every turn, then a self-guided walking tour of Split is exactly the adventure you want. There’s something incredibly special about exploring Split on foot—you move at your family’s pace, linger where the energy grabs you, and skip what doesn’t spark joy. And because almost the entire Old Town sits inside (or around!) a Roman emperor’s retirement palace, this walk feels less like a city tour and more like time-traveling with gelato in hand. Honestly? It’s magic.
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Welcome to Split: Where Empires Rise, Fall, and Leave Behind Absurdly Pretty Architecture
Split may look like a breezy Adriatic beach city today—and it definitely is—but beneath the palm trees and café umbrellas beats the heart of a place that has lived many lives.
Long before the sunbathers and cruise ships, this coastline was home to an ancient Greek colony named Aspalathos (or Aspalatos), translated to “Spiny broom,” which could be inspired by the spiny broom plant that grows wild here but that is one of the many mysteries of history – how places got their names. Fast forward to the 3rd century AD, and Roman Emperor Diocletian looked at this sparkling stretch of Dalmatian coast and said, “Yep, I’m retiring right there.” His palace—more like a fortified mini-city—would become the foundation of modern Split.
Over the next 1,400 years, Split was shaped, rebuilt, occupied, liberated, celebrated, and sometimes even fought over by… well… almost everyone: Byzantines, Venetians, Ottomans, Austrians, French, Italians, Germans, Yugoslavia, and finally the independent Republic of Croatia. Somehow, the city soaked up every influence and came out the other side as a beautifully layered Mediterranean gem.
In 1979, Split’s historic core, including Diocletian’s Palace, joined the UNESCO World Heritage list—cementing it as one of Europe’s most fascinating walkable cities. Inside the Old Town walls, ancient temples now serve as chapels, medieval squares buzz with cafés, and Roman colonnades lead you from museums to markets to the sea.
And that’s why a self-guided walking tour of Split is the best way to meet this city: you’re literally walking through history with every step.
Ready to explore? Here are the highlights you shouldn’t miss.
Stops on Your Self-Guided Walking Tour of Split
1. Riva Harbor (The Seafront Promenade)
History:
The Riva, as we know it today, is actually the youngest major feature in historic Split. For most of Diocletian’s time (4th century AD), the Adriatic Sea crashed directly against the palace’s south wall. It wasn’t until the Venetian and later French (Napoleonic) administrations in the 18th–19th centuries that the coastline was pushed outward with purpose-built quays. By the early 1900s, when cafés and white stone promenades became fashionable, the Riva transformed from a functional port into Split’s iconic social space.
What It Is Now:
The living, breathing heart of the city. Palm trees, sun umbrellas, gelato stands, street musicians…everything spills onto this walkway. Locals come here for their morning coffee ritual (the café culture in Split is a lifestyle).
Why You Should Go:
It’s the perfect start to your tour. The Riva sets the tone—sunny, relaxed, a little glamorous, and full of people-watching opportunities.
Best Time to Visit:
Sunrise for quiet photos; late afternoon for golden-hour light. Open 24/7.
2. Podrum (The Cellars of Diocletian’s Palace)
History:
The Podrum (or Palace Substructures) is one of the most important surviving Roman architectural complexes in the world. Because the floors above collapsed during the Middle Ages, the vaults below preserved the exact footprint of the emperor’s living quarters. This is archaeologically priceless. The cellars also served practical purposes: storage, drainage channels, and foundations that kept the palace stable on marshy ground.
What It Is Now:
Part museum, part marketplace. You’ll find vaulted rooms, archaeological displays, and artisans selling handmade crafts. Parts of the cellars were used as Daenerys’ throne room in Game of Thrones, and you’ll recognize the dragon-holding basement scenes instantly.
Why You Should Go:
The Podrum gives you the most accurate sense of Diocletian’s architectural genius. It’s atmospheric, echoing, and slightly mysterious—kids think it feels like exploring a “Roman dungeon.”
Best Time to Visit:
9am–8pm in peak season (varies off-season).
Go early to avoid crowds and heat.
3. Diocletian’s Palace
History:
Built between 295–305 AD, this wasn’t just a retirement palace; it was a fortified mini-city combining a military camp layout (castrum) with a luxurious villa. Diocletian was the only Roman emperor to voluntarily retire, and he spent his final years here growing cabbages (yes, literally—he bragged about his garden).
After his death, refugees from the destroyed city of Salona took shelter inside the palace walls around the 7th century, effectively transforming the palace into the medieval city of Split.
What It Is Now:
A UNESCO-protected urban labyrinth where ancient marble, medieval stone, and modern life blend seamlessly. Shops, cafés, homes, and museums all operate in its original footprint.
Why You Should Go:
You’re walking through a living Roman palace—there isn’t anything quite like this anywhere else in Europe. It’s history at kid-level: tactile, engaging, walkable.
Best Time to Visit:
Early morning or late afternoon. The palace itself is open 24/7.
4. Cathedral of St. Domnius (Former Temple of Jupiter)
History:
This building is one of the oldest continuously used religious structures in the world. Constructed around 305 AD as Diocletian’s tomb, it was converted into a Christian cathedral in the 7th century—delicious irony, considering Diocletian persecuted Christians.
The bell tower, added between the 12th and 16th centuries, is the symbol of Split.
What It Is Now:
A working cathedral with a rotunda interior, richly carved Roman stonework, and an atmospheric crypt. Climbing the bell tower is a Split rite of passage.
Why You Should Go:
The contrast between Roman and medieval Christian elements is breathtaking. It’s a masterclass in how cities evolve over centuries.
Best Time to Visit + Hours:
Typically 8am–7pm (varies by season).
Arrive early for the bell tower climb—stairs get packed.
5. Grgur Ninski Statue
History:
Grgur (Gregory) of Nin was a 10th-century bishop who advocated holding masses in Croatian rather than Latin, a radical act of national pride. The statue was crafted by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, in 1929.
The statue originally stood in the Peristyle but was moved several times due to political tensions—now it greets visitors near the Golden Gate.
What It Is Now:
A beloved landmark. You’ll always find people rubbing the statue’s big toe for luck.
Why You Should Go:
It’s a fun, quick stop—perfect for travel photos and kid engagement (“rub the toe for good luck!”).
Best Time to Visit:
Anytime during daylight hours.
6. Game of Thrones Museum
History:
While not historic in the traditional sense, the museum exists because Split’s Roman architecture made it an ideal filming site for Meereen and the dragon dungeons. The museum commemorates both the show and Split’s growing role in pop culture tourism.
What It Is Now:
A compact, fan-friendly space filled with replica props, costumes, set recreations, and photo ops. It’s fun, fast, and an easy add-on to the palace cellars.
Why You Should Go:
It’s a playful stop—perfect for a little fantasy break in the middle of your history walk.
Best Time to Visit:
Typically 10am–8pm; mornings tend to be quieter.
7. People’s Square (Narodni trg)
History:
This Venetian-era square rose to prominence during the 14th–15th centuries when the government moved its administrative buildings outside the old Roman core. Surrounding it are Gothic and Renaissance façades, including the Old Town Hall, which once hosted tribunals and public gatherings.
What It Is Now:
A lively square with cafés, bookshops, and shade—basically, one of Split’s favorite social spaces.
Why You Should Go:
Pjaca gives you a taste of medieval Split, separate from the palace. It’s where the city feels most local.
Best Time to Visit:
Late morning or early evening. Great coffee stops.
8. Fruit’s Square (Trg Brace Radic)
History:
Named for the open-air fruit market that once filled the square, this area became important during the Renaissance. The Venetian governor’s palace once stood here, and the tall Baroque tower and the statue of Marko Marulić (the father of Croatian literature) give the square its elegant feel.
What It Is Now:
A charming open plaza dotted with cafés and small shops.
Why You Should Go:
It’s one of the prettiest corners of Split—sunny, compact, and surrounded by beautiful architecture. Great for a rest stop.
Best Time to Visit:
Anytime, though mornings offer the best light.
9. Prokurative (Republic Square)
Built in the mid-19th century under the influence of the Italian architect Antonio Bajamonti, the square intentionally mimics Venice’s Piazza San Marco. This was part of a broader movement to modernize Split during the Austro-Hungarian period.
What It Is Now:
A bright, open plaza used for concerts, festivals, and outdoor performances. Its red façades and archways make it a natural photography hotspot.
Why You Should Go:
It feels like stepping into a slice of Venice—with a lot more elbow room.
Best Time to Visit:
Sunset. The light hits the red buildings perfectly. Open 24/7.
Split is the perfect city to get lost, winding through the ancient city streets, wandering through the markets, enjoying a cup of coffee in the squares, and taking a walk up the hillside to enjoy the view of the city from above (it is worth it – trust me). Split is the first city I had ever visited in Croatia and it introduced me to my now deep love of this country.
